Friday, August 26, 2016

When I saw this, I decided it was too good not to share. It's possible it might not be viewed by the person who it is directed towards for awhile, but eventually I believe it will be seen and the point will be made.  The funny thing is, I learned I was blocked when I went to write an apology for sharing SOME of her mothers/sisters/friends comments to me. I decided I was emotional when I sent them to her and it was possible she was not aware of what her family and friends were saying to me and she might not be at fault. Her blocking me shows me, she was aware of the comments.(perhaps made them herself and worded them so it sounded like it was her mother? or a friends? who knows anymore) Anyway, her blocking me says a lot to me, says she can't handle the truth or perhaps guilt?

Thursday, January 14, 2016

Cyber Bullying

 I was cyber bullied by several people a few years back and it has had a negative effect on me even up to today, it is the reason I stopped blogging publicly on my craft blog here at Nannybird Crafts.
 I found these definitions of cyber bullying I thought I'd share them. My experience with cyber bullying was anonymous comments by cowardly people who couldn't put their names to their own thoughts and hateful slurs. When I blocked them from being able to leave comments on my blog, they turned nastier and started sending even more hateful comments to me directly to my email using a fake email account they created using my last name and thinking they were "clever" with insults and came up with "Gene Lowes" as the false name they used for the fake account. Tell me that wasn't intentional. =================================================
Again, these are not my words and I do not have the authors name of this to be able to give the proper credit.
================================================= Many don't understand the forms in which cyber bullying come, so I'll recap in the hope of raising awareness
FLAMING: Online fights usually through emails, instant messaging or chat rooms where angry and rude comments are exchanged.
DENIGRATION: Putting mean online messages through email, instant messaging, chat rooms, or websites set up to make fun of someone.
EXCLUSION: Intentionally leaving someone out of a group such as instant messaging, friend sites, or other online group activities.
OUTING: Sharing secrets about someone online including private information, pictures, and videos.
TRICKERY: Tricking someone into revealing personal information then sharing it with others.
IMPERSONATION: Pretending to be someone else when sending or posting mean or false messages online.
HARASSMENT: Repeatedly sending malicious messages to someone online.
CYBERSTALKING: Continuously harassing and denigration including threats of physical harm               

Thursday, December 10, 2015

MySurvey.Com/Carol Adams

If anyone out there is tempted by the promises of easy money and free products to evaluate by simply joining a sight called PLEASE reconsider. I have had the most disappointing experience with them and want to save you from the same.

I joined the sight over 10 years ago. At first it was an enjoyable experience. I got free products to test at home, laundry detergent, mascara, antiperspirant, toothpaste, stain spray, and a few other products through out the years. There weren't as many products to test at home as I would have thought but it was an occasional bonus of the experience, but I enjoyed the thought of earning a little money for taking surveys in my spare time.

As the years passed the surveys changed and became less fun, more repetitive and I would get half way through and get screened out. It felt like I was getting cheated. I felt like they were getting the answers they wanted with out having to give out the rewards points that way by saying I was "screened out" because I "didn't qualify" to take the full survey.  My interest started to wane and I took less surveys and eventually only clicked on a couple a week because I knew it wasn't as fun but I wanted to keep my account active because I had accumulated enough points to cash in $100 that I wanted to get for my husband for Christmas.

When I tried to cash it in, I went to the rewards page and of course it wasn't an equal amount any more they all of a sudden required MORE points to cash in... so I had to accumlate even more points to get my gift card I wanted to get for him for Christmas.

There was a few weeks I wasn't on the computer because of my neck issues and then my eventual surgery and finally the time I was recovering from my surgery and when I went to sign into my account to take a survey I was told my account was "inactive" and I wasn't allowed on  the sight.
I wrote and wrote and it took a month to hear from them. They finally reactivated my account and when they did, they had STOLEN, yes, I said STOLEN, over 9,575 points from me. I am not sure of the exact amount. I know it was close 10,000 I had because I was going to try to work hard to find enough surveys they would let me qualify for and LET me finish and LET me be able to collect the actual points for to get up to the extra points I needed to cash in to get the gift card for my husband. When they reopened my account they SAY I only had 405 points on my account.

I have gone around and around with them and they refuse to help me. They know what they have done, ANY company that relies on data as much as them would not have lost this information as they now say they have. It's a bunch of bull and I know it, they know it and now you know it. Don't sign up for their survey taking sight and don't trust them.

IF you are a member.... SAVE your emails with the surveys you took to a folder and verify you took them and take a screen shot of your points tally every time you get new points added because as it appears now, you have to PROVE to them you have your points because they can't seem to FIND them. DO NOT EVER TRUST them. They will steal your points too.

Friday, September 6, 2013

Don't be fooled into believing you are buying something from me.

I recently received this message from some one who was under the impression they purchased something from me: "I purchased one of your videos and I really like it. It has all of the information needed to make a candy wrapper purse. The pictures are clear and the instructions are easy to understand." I want to take a moment to state I do not and have not ever sold any instructional videos. Any information I have ever provided has been free and shared with out me profiting from it. I have always enjoyed sharing information with friendly crafter's free of charge. Don't be fooled into believing you are buying something from me, because I won't be charging you for it.

Saturday, August 30, 2008

Doll Skirt Pattern

I worked this in the round, and used size 6 double pointed needles with DK weight yarn. A small circular needle could be substituted.

I am a rather tight knitter. I don't have a gauge for you, and I can't promise if worked exactly as written it will fit your 16 to 18 inch doll, you will have to use your own judgment and test sizing on your own doll. This is just how I made this skirt and I am sharing this pattern with you to experiment with and change if needed to fit your doll.

Cable Cast on 132 Stitches, join in the round being careful not to twist, place marker.
Stitch Pattern:
Row 1: Purl one, Knit one around
Row 2 Knit
Row 3: Knit one, Purl one around
Row 4: Knit

Repeat these 4 rows once more
Next Row Knit 2 together around to decrease and create ruffle.

Purl one row
Knit one row
Purl one row, this will create garter stitch while working in the round.

Knit 2 together, Yarn Over, around.

Knit 1 Round,
Purl 1 Round, twice for 4 rows of garter stitch.

Repeat the stitch pattern described in rounds 1 through 4 until desired length
Decrease row: Knit 2 together, knit 9 around, 60 stitches remaining
Begin knit one purl one ribbing for 5 rounds, bind off in knit one purl one ribbing.

Matching sleeveless sweater pattern HERE

Here I made the exact same pattern as written above using worsted weight yarn [Caron's simply soft] and a size 5 [US size] circular needle. I will be making the sweater to match and I will update the pictures when I get it made. This is "Stacy" a doll from the Springfield collection, she is an 18 inch doll, similar in size and shape of the popular American Girl dolls.

Friday, August 29, 2008

Sleeveless Doll Sweater or Vest

Worn with opening in front this top can become a vest. I didn't have a Cami to go under it yet so I didn't photograph it that way. As well these pictures were taken before I sewed the buttons along the button band, but you get the idea, I'll update it when I get them sewn on.

As with the skirt, this is an explanation of how I made this top/vest, use it as a guideline to create a fit to your size doll, you can change the size by using thicker yarn, larger needles or increasing or decreasing the stitches in the pattern that follows.

Size 4 knitting needles
DK weight yarn
Cable cast on 50 stitches
Work 5 repeats of following 4 rows for stitch pattern. [20 rows total]
Row 1: Purl 1, Knit 1 across
Row 2: Purl all stitches
Row 3: Knit 1, Purl 1 across
Row 4: Purl all stitches.

Rows 21 through 23 Knit all stitches
Row 24: Knit 12, and place these 12 stitches on stitch holder,
knit and bind off 4 stitches
Knit 18 and place these 18 stitches on stitch holder.
Knit and bind off 4 stitches.
Knit remaining 12 stitches.

Working these 12 stitches in stockinette stitch, work 10 rows. Depending on which side you are working of the 2 sections containing 12 stitches, decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the row that is the center when lined up to join with opposite side, work remaining stitches, work next row evenly. Continue decreasing one stitch on the beginning of the row that is the center section until there are 7 stitches remaining, after return row, slip these 7 stitches to a stitch holder for kitchener join when that point is reached.
[be sure to leave a long tail of yarn before cutting live yarn to rejoin in next step]

Attach yarn to opposite front section and repeat for this side. Once you have completed the second front section and have returned the remaining 7 stitches to a stitch holder, attach yarn to the center 18 stitches.

Work Stockinette stitch for 10 rows.
On 11th row, work 8 stitches, move these 8 stitches to stitch holder, bind off 2 stitches and continue work with remaining 8 stitches on needle. Working in stockinette stitch, for 10 rows. On last row bind off one stitch at neck edge, this will be on the inside for one side of neck edge and on the outside when you work opposite edge. With remaining 7 stitches on needle, join with front with a kitchener join. Attach yarn to opposite side of work and continue in established manner, after second shoulder seam join, weave in yarn ends and join to bottom edge of vest/top. Work a row of single crochet up side, around neck edge and down opposite side. Chain one and turn, work button holes on one side by working one single crochet, chain one, skipping the next SC from previous row and continue with SC for 3 stitches, repeat button hole formation up to the top of the one side, chain one, turn, work single crochet down previous row, including working a SC in the button hole formed. Cut yarn work in tail. If more room is needed for placement of buttons, reattach yarn on opposite side of button hole band and work another row or two of SC on opposite side to create enough fabric to sew the buttons to.

Here is the pattern worn as a vest, fitting an 18 inch doll by using worsted weight yarn, [Caron's Simply Soft] following the directions as written above and using size 4 needles.
Skirt Pattern is HERE

Monday, June 30, 2008

Recycled Purseability Purse Pattern

Here is a link to HOW TO MAKE PLARN if you don't already have one or know how to do it.

Also, you don't have to use plarn if you want to make it with regular yarn, I would suggest bulky or chunky weight to get similar results or doubling up on worsted will give you a larger purse if you hold the two strands together or you could even use one strand with a smaller hook, I want to make one with wool and felt it, but I haven't got any wool right now that will work, if you want to do that, let your own tastes dictate what you choose to use.

Recycled Purseability Purse Pattern

Plastic bag yarn, strips cut to 3 cm width approx. 1 1/8”
Size J crochet hook this will create a nice dense fabric
All stitches are Half Double Crochet [HDC]unless other wise
To create the decreases over 2 stitches, insert hook and
pull up loop twice, then through all 3 loops in other words
don’t YO as a regular HDC stitch.

The base is worked by joining each row with a slip stitch
then the body is worked in the round, I will point out when
to change and when to begin using a pin, stitch marker or
scrap of yarn to mark beginning of each row.
You will achieve best results if you stretch and shape the
plastic fabric as you go.

Row 1:
Chain 21
Work 2 HDC in second chain from hook.
Work HDC stitches across 18 stitches.
Work 3 HDC in next stitch, turn work to continue working the
opposite side of unworked part of the chain.
Work 18 HDC stitches.
Work 1 HDC in space where first 2 HDC’s were worked, Making
sure you skip over the chain one of beginning of round, join
with a slip stitch in top of first HDC worked. [42 stitches

Row 2:
Chain 1, work 2 HDC in same stitch as joining slip st.
work 2 HDC in next stitch.
Work 19 HDC’s
work 2 HDC’s in each of next 2 stitches.
work 19 stitches , join with a slip stitch to first stitch
[46 stitches total]

Row 3:
Chain 1, Work 2 HDC’s in same stitch as joining Slip St.
*[Work 1 HDC in next stitch, work 2 HDC for an increase in
next stitch] repeat work between [ ]'s once more. *
Work 18 stitches, work 2 HDC in next stitch, repeat from *
to * once.
Work remaining 18 stitches, join with a slip stitch to
first st.
[52 stitches total]

Row 4:
Chain 1, Work 1 HDC in same stitch as joining slip stitch.
*Work 2 HDC’s in second stitch, [work 1 HDC in next
stitch, then 2 HDC’s in following stitch] repeat the work
between the [ ]'s 3 times total*
Work 19 HDC
Repeat from * to * work last 18 stitches, join with a slip
st. to first st. [60 stitches total]

Row 5:
This row will be worked as Single Crochet Stitches using
the back loop only, to form a base ridge.

Chain 1, Work 1 stitch in same stitch as joining slip
*2 SC in next stitch, [work 1 stitch in each of next 2
stitches, 2 SC in next stitch] repeat the work between the
[ ]'s 3 times total*
Work 20 SC remember, back loops only
Repeat from * to *
work 19 SC join with slip stitch. [68 stitches total]

Row 6: This is the last increase row, and where you begin
working in the round also where you will need to begin
using a marking on the first stitch of each round.

Chain 1, work 1 HDC in each of next 2 stitches. [placing
marker in first stitch.] *Work 2 HDC in next stitch. [work
1 HDC in each of next 2 stitches, Work 2 stitches for an
increase in next stitch.] repeat work between [ ]'s 3
times more for a total of 5 increases*
Work 21 HDC stitches, repeat from * to *
Work last 19 stitches. Do NOT join, do not chain one. The
end stitch will be off center, and should be.
[78 stitches total]

Row 7 - 11: Work these 5 rows evenly in HDC
Moving pin or marker at beginning of each row. [Making sure
to keep your marking in the very first stitch of each round,
if you forget and try to move it later, it will effect the
stitch count at the finishing.] Your beginning stitch for
the round will gradually move right, and it’s suppose to.

Row 12:
Work a decrease in the first 2 stitches [decrease as stated
work 22 HDC crochets, Work a decrease
Work 13 stitches, Decrease once
Work 22 stitches, Decrease once
Work 13 stitches. [74 stitches total]

Row 13:
Reminder to keep the first stitch in each new row marked
with pin or contrasting yarn.
Work all stitches evenly in Half Double Crochet stitch, [74

Row 14:
Work 5 stitches, Decrease once
Work 10 stitches, Decrease once
Work 23 stitches, Decrease once
Work 10 stitches, Decrease once
Work 18 stitches. [70 stitches total]

Row 15:
Work all stitches even. [70 stitches]

Row 16:
Work 11 stitches. Decrease once
Work 33 stitches, Decrease once
work 22 stitches. [68 stitches total]

Row 17:
Work 5 stitches. Decrease once
Work 10 stitches. Decrease once
Work 20 stitches. Decrease once
Work 10 stitches. Decrease once
Work 15 stitches. [64 stitches total]

Row 18:
Work one row even

Row 19:
Work 4 stitches. Decrease once
Work 12 stitches. Decrease once
Work 16 stitches. Decrease one
work 12 stitches. Decrease once
Work 12 stitches [60 stitches total]

Row 20 and 21:
Work 2 rows even

Row 22:
Work a decrease in first 2 stitches
Work 20 stitches. Decrease once
Work 6 stitches. Decrease once
Work 20 stitches. Decrease one
Work remaining 6 stitches [56 stitches total]

Row 23:
Work one row evenly.
This is the end of the body of the bag, it will be uneven
looking, but it will even out in the next step.

Keeping pin or marker in place, for ease in following
which side I am explaining, work "SINGLE"
crochets in the next 8 stitches, chain 1, in next stitch switch back to HDC, work
6 stitches, chain one and turn. [These 6 stitches SHOULD be
on the half way mark of the bag and will form the handle if
they do not align correctly, adjust so they are centered, this is
where error can be from not keeping the first stitch marked

work 6 Single Crochets [use SINGLE Crochet on all inside
rows, the inside row being the side that will be against your body, the outside row is what is visible.] Chain 1, turn
Work 1 HDC, decreases Twice, work 1 HDC Chain 1 and turn
Work 4 Single crochets, chain 1 and turn.
Work 1 HDC, decrease once, work last HDC stitch, chain 1 and
Work 3 SC, chain 1, turn
Work 1 decrease using stitches 1 and 2, then work another
decrease using stitches 2 and 3, chain 1 and turn.
Work 2 SC chain 1 and turn
Decrease once, chain 1 and turn
Work 1 SC, chain 1 and turn the “right side out, facing
slip hook into base of stitch just worked, pull up yarn, then slip through
stitch and through the ch 1 on hook.

Chain 20 to 28 stitches, depending on length
of handle you will want. [keep in mind, this will be half
the length]
In second chain from hook, work SC down length of the chain
and continue SC down handle base and across the 22 stitches
of the body of the purse to the opposite side of bag. [the
pin should be facing you as you work down the length of the
chain for the handle.]

Repeat handle base formation and chain length for handle,
making sure the side with out the pin is facing you, work
down the chain and handle base in SC stitch. continue SC
across the 22 stitches of the body of the purse, that have
not been previously worked, and that are now facing you
that HAVE the pin or marker in it. Continue back up the
first handle section working on the opposite side of chain
with SC stitches.

When you reach the end of this chain, break yarn, thread a darning needle and sew the 2 handle pieces together, making sure the 2 "finished" edges match. [I break the yarn leaving a loop on the working end, so the ball of yarn can then be reattched with out a knot by removing the broken yarn and start with a whole loop. Reattaching in the same manner as when you looped them together to make the yarn.]
work SC stitches down the last remaining side of handle that is
unworked, continue down the base of the handle and work 2
slip stitches at handle base to join to the stitches of the
body side with out pin.

At this point the handle is done and can be tucked into the
body of the purse to keep it out of the way as you work the

Chain 1 then work 18 SC across the body of the bag, [these 18 stitches should be centered between the handle bases.] Chain 1 turn [when right side of purse flap faces you, use HDC crochet stitches, when inside of flap faces you use SC
stitches, this technique will eliminate the bars showing on
the front that would show if you use only HDC throughout]

Work 18 HDC, chain 1 turn work 18 SC, chain 1 turn, repeat
these 2 rows 5 times total.

Next row Work 1 HDC, decrease once, work 12, decrease, work
1 HDC chain 1 turn work SC across. Chain 1 turn.

Repeat decrease row above, but working 10 stitches between
the decrease stitches, chain 1 turn work SC across. Chain 1

Repeat decrease row, working 8 stitches between the 2
decreases, break off yarn.

Turn purse so the side with the pin is facing you, the flap
is closed and down, on the left side of the base of the
flap, reattach yarn. [You will then open the flap and
turn the purse to continue. I only explain so you are sure
to reattach the yarn to the correct side] and work SC down
side, ***IMPORTANT! [Skip a space between the sides and
bottom edges to create a rounded edge, or work 3 in the
first and last stitch of the bottom edge for squared
corners on the flap.]***
continue SC across the 12 stitches of the bottom edge and
up remaining side.

Work reverse SC stitch back down and
OVER the SC stitches just worked, break off yarn and work
in ends. The purse is now done, and can be lined, if you
choose to, I usually add a sturdy bottom too, before I line
it. For variation, the reverse SC stitch can be worked on
both sides of the handle as well. Another option is to
eliminate the flap and use a zipper or Velcro as a closure.

Now that your purse is finished, SHAPE it, just like when
you crochet or knit with yarn to get the best appearance of
your finished project you have to block it, no water,
blocking board or pins required, just stretch and shape the
plastic so it takes the shape it's intended to have.

All of these purses are made from recycled materials.
Most are crocheted out of plastic grocery store shopping bags, but some are woven from magazines, junk mail or chip and candy wrappers.

Saturday, January 26, 2008

A Flat Bottom Candy Wrapper Purse

I have had requests to post how I made my flat bottom woven purses. I have played with the design ideas a lot and have not come up with the "real" way to do it, I have insight into the proper way it's done from pictures that embeadke at Candy Wrapper Crafts, has sent me of a purse he purchased.

Embeadke has been helpful in sharing his procedure of using storage tape to coat paper with for a more durable and water resistant end product when using magazine pages or other paper that is not coated already, he also introduced me to the idea of using larger pieces of paper, more exactly he suggusted a dollar bill sized piece.

I viewed several pictures he sent that show me the way his purchased hand bag looks inside and out and to be honest with you I have been stumped ever since, with the holidays and other crafts taking precedence over bag making, I haven't done any more research or work on creating another flat bottom purse.

All I can do is post the pictures that I have taken of the process that I came up with to get what I wanted, it's not the "right" way, but it worked, it has some over hang that I tucked in, but I got the results I wanted, even if it's not the proper way to achieve the flat bottom, you are welcome to try it as I have done it, and maybe with some tweaking, you might be able to figure out the correct way to get the design yourself. So, here is the process I took to get the flat bottom purse design.

The first picture here is showing the bottom strips, the center is made with 2 strips of 32 links sewn together, then the right side is 28 links and the left side is 30 links.

Then picture number 2 is what the bottom looked like, I took it before I actually sewed it together, but it IS what it looked like when it was sewn.

This is how it looked as I set the top portion over the bottom just an idea of how much the 2 ends were hanging out,

A better view of just one side of it, how it looks before you tuck it in.
The top section is coils of 70 links long, and the bottom measures 12 inches, so of course adjustments will need to be made to get the size you want.
Since this purse was made, I have come to see it works best if the coil is best made with a number that is divided by 2 and is then an even number, mine were 35 as the half number and an even number is much easier to work with.

The next picture is a top view after I basted the stitches on each edge, leaving the two ends unattached, and the edges hanging out,

The next 2 pictures are close ups of how it looks sewn on the sides with ends unattached.

Then these next 2 are of a close up after I tucked the ends inside.

Here is an inside view of the bottom with the ends tucked in.

This is an inside view of the bottom before I sewed the ends into place.

This is an outside view of the bottom from a side angle.

Here is the bottom view.

I did not continue to take pictures at this point, but I anchored the inside flaps and sewed more rows on, making the last 3 rows just a bit smaller by cutting the paper pieces just a bit smaller to make it tapper a bit, followed by adding a flap on one side, making each row 2 less links until I got the results I have pictured here.

I don't expect any of this to be very helpful unless you have already been to Mylinda's Wrapper Purse tutorial and learned the basic of construction and practiced the folding nd sewing of the bag she gives as a basis of building on. Her link is on the right side bar ---> over there ---> but up higher. I don't know if this will help you in your conquest, but you asked how I did it and this is how.

Then there was my brown purse, it is made with much larger links of paper, starting with a dollar bill size pieces. This design had a better result as far as how much excess there was in the edges prior to sewing, I don't think it had anything to do with the size of the pieces, I think I am going to stick to the smaller pieces of paper as Mylinda instructs for future projects, it was faster to use the dollar bill sized paper, but I like the firmer 'fabric' that is obtained by using the smaller paper pieces.

I used 4 bottom rows of 22 links each,[remember this is larger because of the dollar bill sized paper, it will be much smaller if you use these same numbers with the smaller paper pieces] then sewed them together, I then used 60 links length joined, and attached them to the bottom segment, I had success on 2 corners and the other 2 aren't what I want, but it will work, just not perfect. I still had to tuck in one link on each end of one row and sew it closed, leaving a less then perfect square corner.

Here I have completed 5 rows added to the bottom. At this point I started decreasing the size of the links, by gradually making each row from smaller pieces of paper.

My next attempt is going to be to investigate the possibility of not joining the chains into a circle and work in vertical rows that start at the top, come down to form a bottom and then continue on up to the opposite side at the top, and then joining them into one long rectangle, and fitting in a side segment of approximately 4 rows joined together in a smaller rectangle. I am just playing with this option in my mind, if you get around to trying it first go for it, I am sharing these thought with out trying them, there is no guarantee it will work, just my whirling mind at work! If you have any suggestions, thoughts or experience with any of these ideas please share with me, I'd love to cut through some of the experimenting if you have already tried any of these things and it didn't work!!